Archive for the ‘Peru’ Category

Nov
12

Jaen, PE (217 kms)

Jaen, PE  (217 kms)

My grandfather handed me a short length of garden hose when I bought my first car 18 years ago. He called it a “Cape Breton Credit Card” and said it may come in handy some night. I never used the one he gave me but I packed a CBCC for the journey with him in mind. After the hotel owner brokered a deal for a some gas I pulled it out, laughed and thought of that sunny day 18 years ago.

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Nov
6

Chachapoyas, PE (171 kms)

Chachapoyas, PE  (171 kms)

The final two hours of my ride were as memorable as any I have had to date.  Carving corners in the tight canyon from Pedro Ruiz to Chachapoyas before the road opened up for a climb up the mountain to another small colonial town.  As good as the views and riding were it was a familiar sound that put a little bounce in my step.

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Nov
7

Chachapoyas, PE (- kms)

Chachapoyas, PE  (- kms)

I was roused from my sleep by a rumble.  Not in the streets but from my stomach and I scrambled in the dark to find the door to the shared bathroom in the hostel.  I knew at that moment I wouldn’t be riding today.  The streets of Chachapoyas were beautiful but cruel.

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Nov
9

Kuelap, PE (75 kms)

Kuelap, PE  (75 kms)

I had decided a day earlier not to ride into Kuelap, instead planning to backtrack to the PanAmerican.  Roberto M convinced me otherwise saying he was told the ride would be one of the best of the trip.  Now I was 40 kms away from Kuelap on a narrow, one lane road thankful he had changed my mind

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Nov
14

Balsas, PE (174 kms)

Balsas, PE  (174 kms)

Consturcted with a 360 view of the mountains and valleys that surrounded it, Kuelap was built by the Incas to defend their territory bordering the Amazonas.  At 6:30 AM the lone sentry on the ruins of this once great fortress watched curiously as a Mexican and a Canadian scaled the walls to make their attack.

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Nov
16

Cajamarca, PE (166 kms)

Cajamarca, PE  (166 kms)

At times I briefly question the journey by motorcycle.  Usually it happens in traffic while cold rain falls and the kid in the car beside me devours a slice of hot pizza.  The benefits of the motorcycle often reappear shortly thereafter and today was no exception.  Access on all roads in and out of Cajamarca we blocked by protestors and nothing was allowed to pass… except motorcycles. Continue Reading…

Nov
8

Trujillo, PE (317 kms)

Trujillo, PE  (317 kms)

Smooth asphalt and long switchbacks made the two and half kilometre vertical drop from Cajamarca to Trujillo relaxing and leisurely.  I was back at sea level in the dessert coast of Peru where a short break in the small city of Trujillo turned into a stay overnight.

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Nov
0

Trujillo, PE (-kms)

Trujillo, PE  (-kms)

It seems that the “days off” on the road are more work then the rides themselves.  Tracking down a cleaning service, minor maintenance on the bike and the building list of to do’s in preparation for the ride ahead really eat up the day.  I now wonder whether my preference to the country and small towns are because of what they offer or what awaits in the city.  Either way, in Trujillo I had a bit of help.

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Nov
11

Huaraz, PE (400 kms)

Huaraz, PE  (400 kms)

I pulled into Huaraz and stopped the bike in the Plaza Central.  I had missed the turn to take me on a small road north of Alpamayo where I wanted to camp.  I thought it was bad luck until I looked back at the mountain from Huaraz.  Suddenly I knew that the missed turn saved me a cold night in the tent.

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Nov
6

Lima, PE (469 kms)

Lima, PE  (469 kms)

It was cool packing the bike but the sun was out and I decided not to put on a sweater.  Twenty minutes later I was in my pannier getting bundled up when I looked over my shoulder and was warmed by a view that reminded my of the Sawtooth Range near Telegraph Creek, British Columbia.  Later that morning at breakfast I would have another experience that would remind me of Northern British Columbia.  It was warm, but not as pleasant.

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